Semi-translucent shells transform lamp shades

Dear Sandi: I just caught a rerun of a television program you were on where you were making a number of different lamps from seashells. The one that really caught my eye was one where you created a shade made with capiz shells and a handmade paper base. I would love to know how this was done. —Betsy E. Dallas

Hi Betsy: Capiz recently has become all the rage, and pieces featuring this tropical shell have prices that reflect its new-found popularity, but you can create your own for a fraction of the cost.

This is an elegant lamp, and it looks equally wonderful (yet quite different) whether it is lit or not. Capiz shell has long been prized for its semi-translucent characteristics. Also known as windowpane shell, it has been used for many years as a decorative insert in furniture, especially in pieces such as dividing screens, where natural light can be allowed to filter through the shells.

Despite its ornate appearance, it is very easy to make. We started with a purchased lamp base. This can be anything that you like, that fits in with your decor.

Although we were making a table lamp, this particular shade also would look quite wonderful on a floor lamp if you choose a shade base that balanced the proportions of the fixture.

Whether you're looking for handmade paper, furniture, fabric or accessories, you will find it at loose ends. If it is unusual, organic and fabulous, then loose ends is the place. Showroom hours are 8 am to 5 pm weekdays and the first Saturday of each month 10 am - 3pm at 2065 Madrona Ave. SE, Salem, or visit us online at www.looseends.com Questions? Give us a call at (503) 390-2348.

We covered our lamp base with a handmade paper that actually has bits of ground-up capiz shell right in it. The bits are small, yet large enough to catch the light and add just a touch of sparkle to the deep aqua color of the paper.

This particular paper already is textured so you don’t have to distress it before you begin, just tear the paper into workable-sized pieces (about 2 to 3 inches) and tear off any straight edges. Always tear, don’t cut, otherwise you will just be creating another straight edge.

We worked with a liquid laminate for our adhesive. Although you could use almost anything, the liquid laminate is extremely strong and gives a harder finished surface than other adhesives. It also is cleaner to work with since you paint the laminate onto the lamp base, apply the paper, then brush more liquid laminate over the top of the paper piece, rather than dipping the paper into a glue mixture.

Whatever adhesive you use, work from the top to the bottom of the lamp base, using another stiff bristled, dry brush to work your paper into all of the curves and ridges on your base. You don’t want to have the paper add a bulky look to the base, so keep working this area until the paper almost seems like a coat of paint. Adding more liquid laminate to the surface will help you work the paper into all the smallest areas, really bringing out the details.

For the shade, we started with a store-bought base. Although you could probably work with a variety of shapes, the beauty of the capiz is best shown off on a wide form.

Our shade base was 9 inches tall and approximately 16 inches wide at the widest point.

Natural capiz shell is quite irregular, and it has traditionally been cut into rounds usually 3 inches in diameter. For our shade, we needed about 120 of the shells.

Sandi Reinke is an author, frequent television guest and lead designer for loose ends (www.loosends.com), a Salem-based interior décor, garden, and casual lifestyle company. To ask Reinke a decorating question, e-mail info@looseends.com or mail her at the showroom address, 2065 Madrona Ave. SE, Salem, OR 97302. Phone: 503-390-2348.

Starting at the bottom, glue the capiz shells all around the lower rim.

Although your first inclination may be to use a hot glue gun, it really isn’t the best choice since any pressure against the shells will cause them to “pop” later. Instead, use a super glue such as Quick Grab.

Position the shells so that about two-thirds of the capiz shells are hanging below the shade’s rim, with the top third being firmly anchored onto the shade. Continue on around the shade, overlapping each capiz about an inch over the one previously glued down.

When you have completed the first row, begin on the second row by tiling the capiz between and over the top of two of the rounds on the bottom row, overlapping this capiz about halfway down over the first two. Continue on around the shade, making your second row, then continue on making more rows in the same fashion until you reach the top of your shade.

Don’t worry if your tiling is not always exactly in the middle of the two lower ones. You will have to make some adjustments as you work, depending on the size and shape of the shade base you are working on.

Just be sure that you finish your last top row with the capiz shells just barely (1/8 to 1/4 inch) over the top rim of the shade. June 10, 2005